After conquering their six-day hiking adventure through the Iceland terrain, two local women thrive on their experience and are empowered to live and achieve even greater heights.
Although they have been back since July 16, Denise Washington of Hackettstown and JoAnn Spilman of Long Valley recount their amazing, yet challenging experience they had with the Viking Women on the Women’s Laugavegur Hiking Tour with 57 Hours, held July 10-15. The two friends hiked a total of 54.23 miles with a total elevation gain of 8,613 ft. and made some life-long connections with other women around the globe.
“This trip was not anything at all what I expected,” says Washington, former Mt. Olive resident. “I knew that it was going to be physically challenging which it was, but I did not expect to have developed a lifelong relationship with a few of the other women who were in our group. We truly cared for each other physically and emotionally.
“Preparing meals together, motivating each other as we struggled up and down mountains, through sand and at times hiking on narrow ledges on the side of the mountain, sharing stories about our lives,” continues Washington, a medical coder/auditor, spin instructor, personal trainer and health and wellness coach. “Having some very serious conversations with women who were initially strangers has unexpected bonded me with two to three of the women for life. These are the women that I continue to connect with on almost a daily basis since the trip.”
In the group was a total of 17 women — including their guide, an experienced 23-year-old hiker from Iceland — ranging in age from 30 – 70 years old with the average age of 59. There were six women from the UK, two from Canada, and eight from the United States.
Friends for 13 years, Washington and Spilman did not know what to expect when they signed up for the trip. They agreed it was way more challenging than they anticipated but returned with a feeling of achievement and empowerment.
Washington enjoyed most “the daily challenge of hiking into an unknown terrain encountering the physical challenge of another 15-20 miles. At the beginning of each day, I knew that I would use skills that I developed the following day to complete the hike while knowing that I would also learn something new about myself once I arrived at the hut that evening.
“Now that I am home, I am surprised how I have changed,” says Washington. “Not only am I proud of having completed this hike but I also know that I have changed in ways that will be revealed to me later. Not only have I physically changed, I am stronger, I know that my energy and the way that I will continue to walk the earth has changed because of this hike.”
Challenges Along The Way
With their adventure came some new challenges.
“The first challenge for me was the first night when I was introduced to life in a hut,” says Washington. “The huts are bare bones with a kitchen and various rooms with bunk beds with thin foam mattresses and we shared the hut with other hikers. Unfortunately, the first night we arrived late and the 17 of us were not able to sleep together. It was a shocker for me! The sleeping areas were cramped, and our room had bunk beds! I have never slept in a bunk bed much less slept in the top bunk. Thank goodness I learned how to navigate climbing in and out of a top bunk because I slept in the top bunk four out of five nights.
“That first night I declared to JoAnn that I was leaving and going back to Reykjavik,” admits Washington. “I seemed to have forgotten that I was in the middle of nowhere having crossed a terrain that was impossible to access by bus, truck, or van. I laugh about it now because as serious as I was, I could not see how I thought I was leaving. Oh, and let’s not forget that when we arrived, we had hiked for six hours. For three of the six hours we hiked through rain, wind and snow. We were wet, hungry, and tired when we arrived. That day we hiked 6.4 miles with an elevation gain of 2,185 ft. At one point I made a misstep and slid down the mountain. I arrived at the hut covered in mud.”
Washington’s next challenge was her health. On the second day of the trip she awoke with a fever.
“I sat in the sun and pushed through it,” she says. “I was sick for the rest of the hike but was determined to complete the Laugavegur Trail with my crew. I am positive that 23 hours of sunlight gave me the strength to continue the trail and enjoy the hike.”
Longer hikes and cliffs were challenging for Spilman, a retired information and cyber security manager.
“There were both physical and mental challenges,” she says. “You had to keep going. We did stop for breaks every two or so hours. There were cliffs at times on both sides of the passages. Our trek poles became our friends! Also, many miles of hiking per day versus what I thought.
“The trip was more difficult than I imagined,” she admits. “I thought it would be a daily ascent, followed by a decent. It was basically up/down/up/down, then more up and down! Also, the miles per day were more than planned. Each day we hiked from 8 to 20 miles!”
Agrees Washington, “Many times, during the hike I was simply trying to stay alive. There were some challenging areas such as hiking on the side of the mountain ledge with a deep cannon on the left and nothing on the right.”
Physically and mentally, they were put to the test.
“The hike was mentally harder than I expected,” adds Washington. “Each morning it was essential that I not only stretch to physically prepare but I also did a short meditation to mentally prepare for the challenge ahead. I also used the first 10 minutes of each hike to do a meditative exercise where I massaged gratitude back into the earth to support me on my journey.”
The group hiked about 10 hours each day, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.
“Our guide was so enthusiastic and added miles to each day because we had beautiful weather,” says Washington. “I think on the last day of the hike we were on the trail for over 12 hours.”
Memorable Highlights
“The second day I was amazed at how beautiful Iceland was,” describes Washington. “I woke up to a sky which was the deepest blue I had ever seen speckled with cumulus clouds. This was in stark contrast to how dark, windy, and rainy it was the night before. The contrast was amazing, and each day was so clear and beautiful.”
Same with the terrain, also varied and beautiful.
“One day was filled with snow topped mountains, the next black sand, one day was spent hiking through a cannon and the last day we hiked through a forest,” says Washington. “The forest was interesting because the tallest trees were about 5 feet. The Vikings used the trees to build ships and Iceland is in the process of re-creating forests.”
Earthquakes and daylight kept Spilman on her toes.
“Back-to-back earthquakes felt in the hotel the day after we arrived at 11 p.m.,” had her shook. “One was 5.1 followed by a 5.2! Denise made fun of me since at first, I thought it was a train passing through.
“Also, the 24 hours of daylight was an experience,” adds Spilman. “There were two hours of dusk from midnight to 2 a.m. That gives you plenty of energy at night.”
Spilman appreciated the “incredible scenery, snow-packed glaciers, black sand from the volcanos, dormant volcanos.”
The weather varied but they came prepared.
“We had water crossings,” says Spilman. “Brought our water shoes for the trek across it. A few were deep and swift. Day one and two we hiked in snow! One hut at night the temp was down to 39 degrees F. Days were typically 55 degrees F. Day one we also hiked in the rain! Lots of rain.”
Despite their obstacles, the two are happy they conquered Iceland and recommend the trip to others with some words of advice.
“I am stronger than I imagined, and I have a desire to go on more adventures!” says Washington.
“There were also times when I could just “be.” Although I was hiking with a group, I had time to do a retrospective review of my life, spirit and think about who I am. I told you that this hike changed me, and it was during these quiet times on the hike that I gained insight about who I am at this age and who I am becoming.”
Spilman also returned on a positive note.
“I can do anything!” says Spilman. “I came back empowered.”
She does recommend the trip to others but “with the caveat that you are really roughing it. The days are long. The huts are basic.
“Be well prepared physically and also mentally,” she adds. “I did not have issues with the heights, but other hikers did.”
Washington is a bit more upbeat about it.
“This trip will challenge you physically beyond anything that you have ever done in your life,” she says. “I trained for 14 months, in various terrains, high elevations, and hikes at various speeds but there was no way to describe what I encountered each day on the hike. I am still amazed that I went to Iceland and completed the Laugavegur Trail. There will always be a joy that I get when I think of my time out on the trail.”
She does suggest to “Be prepared for life in a hut. If you never hiked from hut to hut know that no matter how you imagine a hut it will be worse than you think, however you will be surprised how quickly you will adapt.
“Train hard,” she adds. “Go on hikes of various skill levels. Do strength training and various cardio conditioning (spin, walking, running, etc.)
Take the chance to commit and GO! Life is meant to live! Be willing to venture beyond whatever limits that you may have imposed on yourself. Going beyond these self-imposed limits will not only empower you but you will be surprised how it empowers others.”
